How I paint - Chaos Daemons - Bloodletters of Khorne
One of the four Chaos gods, is Khorne, who has his own set of daemonic minions. The Bloodletters are the most numerous of these Khornate daemons. When, I first set out to paint these daemons, I wanted a reasonably quick method, to put a Khorne daemon army together, I was going to need a 'few' of these little monsters.
Additional guides painting guides:
- Juggernauts of Khorne
- Fleshhounds of Khorne
Paints Required:
- Chaos Black spray
- Khorne Red
- Mephiston Red
- Army Painter Red Tone
- Carroburg Crimson
- Rhinox Hide
- Druchii Violet
- Lahmian Medium
- Evil Suns Scarlet
- Wild Rider Red
- Trollslayer Orange
- Screaming Skull
- Pallid Wych Flesh
- Abaddon Black
- Warpfiend Grey
- Dawnstone
- Leadbelcher
- Warplock Bronze
- Brass Scorpion
- Nuln Oil
- Agrax Earthshade
- Eshin Grey
- Xerus Purple
- Runelord Brass
- Fire Dragon Bright
- Yriel Yellow
- Lamenters Yellow
- Bloodletter
Begin by undercoating the miniature with Chaos Black spray.
The miniature was then painted all over with watered-down Khorne Red (water: paint 1:3). Both the feet and the tips of the horns were left black. This red layer provides a nice base for later stages.
The flesh was then painted with watered-down Mephiston Red (water: paint 1:2). The watered down layers build up to give a nice smooth coat. I used three coats to get the finish I required.
The flesh was then washed with a 1:1 mix of Army Painter Red Tone and Carroburg Crimson. Do not allow the wash to pool. If it does pool, remove it with a damp brush.
The hair down the spine was then given a basecoat with Rhinox Hide. Watered-down Rhinox Hide (water: paint 1:2) was then painted onto the back and leg scales. When painting the back scales, I painted from the edge of scales and drew the paint towards the spine. After the Rhinox Hide on the hair was dry, this was shaded with Druchii Violet. The scales on the legs and back were shaded with a 1:1 mix of Druchii Violet and Lahmian Medium.
The next steps are all about highlighting the flesh of the daemon. Using some slightly thinned Mephiston Red, start to highlight the flesh, take care to avoid the recesses.
Continue to highlight the flesh with Evil Suns Scarlet. Try to use just one coat of paint to begin with. If you want to brighten the highlight, apply a second coat to a smaller area of the flesh. This will build up a natural transition between the shade and the highlight.
The scales on the back and legs were then lightly drybrushed with Evil Suns Scarlet. The flesh was further highlighted with Wild Rider Red, following the previous step's technique of one coat of paint. The scales on the back and legs were then lightly drybrushed with Wild Rider Red. The face of the daemon was then given a very light drybrush with Trollslayer Orange. When drybrushing the face, you are trying to get a very slight highlight on the raised regions of the eyebrows and the cheek bones. At this point the flesh is now complete.
The next steps all deal with the details on the miniature. The eyes were painted with Screaming Skull. The teeth were painted with Pallid Wych Flesh. The tongue and the fingernails were painted Abaddon Black.
To paint the horns, Abaddon Black was watered down with Lahmian Medium at a ratio of 1:2. This was then applied to the tips of the horn and drawn downwards towards towards the head. The tips of the horns can be given a second coat of the black. The aim is to get a transition of black to red down the horn.
The spine fur was then highlighted with Warpfiend Grey and then Dawnstone. I prefer to paint the hairs individual rather than drybrush as it gives a neater finish.
Hellblades, the sword of the Bloodletter, is a very important part of their lore. As such, I think it deserves a paint job that focuses the eye on to it. The handle of the Hellblade was given a basecoat with a 1:1 mix of Leadbelcher and Abaddon Black. When this was dry it was washed with Nuln Oil. The hilt and pommel of the sword were first base-coated with Warplock Bronze before being given a second basecoat with Brass Scorpion.
The teeth and eyes were both given a wash with a 2:1 mix of Nuln Oil and Lahmian Medium. The fingernails were highlighted with Dawnstone. The tips of the horns were highlighted with Eshin Grey and then with Dawnstone. The tongue was then highlighted with Xerus Purple.
The sword handle was then lightly drybrushed with Leadbelcher. You only need to brighten the metal slightly. The hilt and pommel of the sword were highlighted with Brass Scorpion. The hilt was then edge highlighted with Runelord Brass.
All we have to finish now is the sword blade. At the start, we painted the blade Khorne Red. The aim is now to build up oranges and yellow to simulate the heat of the sword's forging. This technique works by building up layers of thin paint applied as glazes. Take your time and allow each layer to dry before applying the next.
Start by heavily watering down Mephiston Red (water: paint 1:3). Apply this paint to around half way down the blade and draw it towards the tip. This direction causes the greatest quantity of the Mephiston Red to build up at the tip. Do not overload the brush.
Next heavily water down Evil Suns Scarlet (water: paint 1:3). Apply this paint to the top third of the sword blade. Do not overload the brush.
Next heavily water down Wild Rider Red (water: paint 1:3). Paint a diamond/ tear drop at the tip of the sword. Use the tip of the sword to form two sides of the diamond. Also apply some of the Wild Rider Red to the tips of the serrations lower down on the blade.
By now, you should be developing a nice transition from dark red at the base of the sword to a bright red at the sword tip.
Next heavily water down Trollslayer Orange (water: paint 1:3). Continue to highlight the blade. Focus the Orange on to the tips of the serrations and the tip of the blade. Also focus the orange on the central ridge of the blade. With each successive highlight, reduce the area the paint is applied to.
This next step uses glazes to draw all of the highlighting colours together. Apply Bloodletter (red glaze) to the lower half of the sword. Whilst it is still wet, apply Lamenters Yellow to the top half of the sword. Where the two glazes meet blend them together.
Finish by basing as you desire.
This scheme is nice and straight forward. The sword is also very rewarding to paint and can be adapted for a range of other miniatures.
I hope you find this guide useful. Have you used this scheme? Do you have any questions? Please put them in the comments below. Happy Hobbying.
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